Asian Current

The Mughal Gardens of Srinagar

The great Mughals (also Moghals) that ruled India for more than three hundred years were gifted with many qualities, though a few were fanatics too. Emperors like Shahjehan and Jehangir contributed to the cause of art and literature, while historians agree that the great king Akbar was an ideal ruler. Perhaps the most legendary edifice left by the Moghals is the Taj Mahal at Agra, but the gardens they built in Srinagar, Kashmir are great achievements too, and draw tourists in hordes as well. Describing the scenic beauty of Srinagar, Akbar went eloquent - “If there is heaven anywhere in earth, it is here, my friend, it is here”, he quipped to his intimate friend and mentor, Birbal.

If you ever get to Kashmir, you must pay a visit to the Shalimar Baugh garden in Srinagar to appreciate its charming beauty, against the backdrop of snowcapped mountains and the air of seclusion and repose perennially present here. Shalimar was built by Emperor Jehangir for his beloved wife, Nur Jahan, or ‘the Light of the world’, and was rightly called ‘the garden of love’. Measured 540m x 183m, Shalimar Baugh is built in terraces with traditional water channels running down through the middle. The upper terraces were held in reserve for the royalty and included a pavilion that was supported by jet-black marble pillars intricately engraved and curved. The pavilion also served as a banquet hall. The optical illusion of the rows of fountains and the shade trees gradually receding towards the horizon makes it an amazing landscape. Son et Lumeiere (sound & light show) performed every night nowadays within the garden premises brings back the memories of by gone days to the delight of visitors at the Shalimar Baugh.

Yet another striking beauty is the Nishat Baugh garden that is situated on the banks of the Dal Lake. Comprising twelve terraced flowerbeds that sequentially descend down till almost merging with the still waters of the Lake - it is a sight to behold. Measuring 548m x 338m, Nishat is probably the largest of all Moghul gardens in Srinagar. Designed by one of the brothers of Queen Nur Jehan, Asaf Khan, it was built in 1633, following the same pattern as Shalimar. However, how the 12 signs of the zodiac were embodied within those 12 terraces is a grand mystery. A walk through the garden lined with rows of Cypress and Chinar trees is an exhilarating experience.

Though smaller in dimensions (108m x 38m), the Chasma Shahi Moghul garden (the royal spring) is no less eye-catching. Situated well above the hillside, the central theme of the garden is a natural spring cascading down through the terraced flowerbeds and the pavilions, running gracefully all the way over gleaming granite. The water is used to run the fountains within the garden as also to dampen the flowerbeds. Laid out in 1632 by Ali Mardan Khan, Chasma Shahi includes three terraces, several waterfalls and fountains, and an intricately designed aqueduct. Meticulously maintained with water ducts and channels in perfect working order, the Chasma Shahi is a must for people eager to visit the Moghul gardens in Srinagar. Water coming out of the fresh water spring is also believed to be good for digestive disorders as well. However, unlike the other gardens, a nominal entry fee is levied for the Chasma Shahi.

Besides the three major gardens laid out in Srinagar by the great Moghuls, there are a few more Moghul gardens in the picture post-card city, but compared to the Shalimar Baugh, Nishat Baugh and the Chasma Shahi, they only play a second fiddle.