Before it was closed to foreigners in 1949, the north face of Mt. Everest was as popular as the south route to the summit. While the south ridge has to be approached from Nepal, the north face needs to be climbed from China and Tibet. Though there are 15 other routes to the summit, these are the 2 routes that have been most popular – the southeast ridge, and climbing the north face. The southeast ridge is technically not as challenging as the north ridge and this is another reason why the north face is less frequented. However the fact that the north face is more challenging means that many mountaineers prefer this to the route through Nepal. In recent years, foreigners have again been allowed by the local authorities to scale the north face of Everest.
As described earlier, an expedition to the north face needs to approach the summit from Tibet. All groups must first go to Rongbuk Glacier which is at 5,180 meters (17,000 ft) above the sea level. This is where the mountaineers set up their Base Camp. While trekking to the Base Camp, you will also pass through Rongphu Monastery, which at 18,000 feet’s is the highest inhabited place on earth. Many western travelers spend a day at the monastery to get the blessings of Buddha and also for a first hand experience of an alternative way of living up in the Himalayas.
The view of the north face of Mt. Everest is incredibly spectacular from the Base Camp. So even if you are not a mountaineer it might make sense to just visit the Camp and view the peak. Plus, since you are on the other side of the Himalayas, you will then be standing on the bare and alpine Tibetan plateau, and will be able to view the vast expanse of snows of the Himalayas. All the mighty peaks of the world, including the north face will be exposed in front of you. Let me tell you, just standing there with all that snow ahead and the vast Tibetan Plateau behind, can be overwhelming.
After the Base Camp, members of the party begin the ascend by slowly climbing to Camp II at 20,000 ft, Camp III that is also the ‘Advanced Base Camp’ at 21,300 ft and then need to climb the Rongbuk Glacier to reach Camp IV at 23,000 ft. At Camp IV, they come across the rocky north ridge that needs to be climbed to reach Camp V at 25,500 ft. Above this lies the legendary and scary ‘Death Zone’. Mountaineers now need to manage several gullies, steep climbs, slabby slopes – not for the weak at heart to reach Camp VI at 27,000 ft. This is where they rest a night, make all the prayers, and finally go for the peak after negotiating the First Step, Second Step and Third Step. Behind these steps, lies the highest point in the world. And you have climbed the north face of Mt. Everest.
There are commercial expeditions to the summit that start off from Katmandu, go to Lhasa, on to Rongphu Monastery and then on to the peak. These expeditions will take you up the hill, and also make you have a taste of the cultural and religious sides of Nepal and Tibet.